Ornaments, Makeup, and Attire in Enhancing Bharatanatyam Performances

Author: Ram Krishnamani    Date: January 24, 2025

The Role of Ornaments, Makeup, and Attire in Enhancing Bharatanatyam Performances: A Detailed Analysis

Bharatanatyam, one of the oldest and most revered classical dance forms of India, is not merely an art of movement. It is a holistic experience that combines storytelling, music, rhythm, and visual aesthetics to create an impactful narrative. Among the many elements that contribute to a Bharatanatyam performance, the dancer’s ornaments, makeup, and attire hold a profound significance. These elements are far from superficial embellishments; they are integral to the delivery, impact, and user experience (UX) of the performance, both for the dancer and the audience.

The Use of Ornaments and Makeup in Bharatanatyam

1. Purpose and Symbolism

Ornaments and makeup are not merely decorative but symbolic in Bharatanatyam. They represent the divine connection of the art form, with dancers often adorned like celestial beings or gods and goddesses. Each piece of jewelry has a specific role and purpose:

  • Head Ornaments: The Nettichutti (forehead ornament), Chandra (moon), and Surya (sun) symbolize divine energy and enlightenment. The intricate braid ornaments like Jadai Nagam enhance the sanctity of the performance.
  • Necklaces and Armlets: These highlight the dancer’s physical beauty while signifying protection and grace. The Oddiyanam (waist belt) adds structure to the costume and frames the dancer’s body.
  • Ankle Bells (Salangai): These are essential for rhythm, translating the dancer’s footwork into an audible layer of the performance.

2. Makeup as an Expressive Tool

Makeup in Bharatanatyam is designed to accentuate the dancer’s facial expressions (Abhinaya), which are central to storytelling. Every element has a purpose:

  • Eyes: Kohl and eyeliner are applied heavily to emphasize the eyes, enabling the dancer to communicate emotions even to the audience seated farthest away.
  • Lips and Cheeks: Bright lipstick and blush enhance expressions, making them more pronounced and effective.
  • Alta (Red Dye): Applied on the hands and feet, it emphasizes gestures and footwork, creating a vivid visual contrast on stage.

The Importance of Visual Aesthetics in Bharatanatyam

1. Enhancing Storytelling

Bharatanatyam often narrates stories from Indian epics like the Ramayana or Mahabharata, and the dancer’s appearance amplifies the storytelling. The ornaments and makeup help the dancer embody divine characters, while the vibrant costumes provide a visual context for the narrative.

For instance, a dancer portraying Lord Krishna might wear a peacock-feathered crown, while one depicting Goddess Durga might don fierce eye makeup and larger ornaments to signify power.

2. Establishing the Mood and Theme

The choice of colors, ornaments, and makeup plays a crucial role in setting the tone of the performance. Bright colors like red and gold are often used for energetic, celebratory themes, while subtler tones might be chosen for more somber, devotional performances.

3. Creating a Divine Aura

The elaborate attire and ornaments elevate the dancer’s presence, transforming her into a larger-than-life figure that commands attention and respect. This divine aura helps transport the audience into the spiritual and mythological realms depicted in the performance.

Delivery and Execution: Impact on Performance and Audience

1. Synchronization with Movements

The ornaments and attire are designed to move harmoniously with the dancer’s body. For example:

  • The Oddiyanam accentuates hip movements, drawing attention to the intricate footwork.
  • The Salangai adds an auditory dimension to the rhythmic patterns of the dance.

This synchronization ensures that every movement, whether subtle or dramatic, is visually and aurally impactful.

2. Amplifying Expression

The detailed makeup enhances the dancer’s ability to convey emotions through Abhinaya. A slight arch of the eyebrow, a quivering lip, or a tearful glance becomes more vivid and emotionally resonant, allowing the audience to deeply connect with the narrative.

3. Immersive Experience for the Audience

The combination of visual elements, rhythmic sounds, and expressions creates a multisensory experience for the audience. It draws them into the story, making them active participants rather than passive viewers.

Effect and Impact: Creating Lasting Impressions

1. Memorable Visuals

The rich, detailed aesthetic of a Bharatanatyam performance leaves a lasting visual impression. The audience remembers not just the story but the vibrant imagery, which becomes a part of their emotional memory.

2. Evoking Emotional Responses

The seamless blend of ornaments, makeup, and dance has a profound emotional impact. It can evoke feelings of devotion, joy, sorrow, or awe, depending on the theme of the performance.

3. Upholding Tradition While Innovating

The use of traditional ornaments and makeup connects the performance to its roots, while modern innovations in costume design and stage lighting enhance its appeal to contemporary audiences.

How These Elements Combine with the Overall Theme

In Bharatanatyam, every detail is intentional and tied to the overall theme of the performance:

  • Rhythm and Movement: The Salangai and Oddiyanam complement the beats of the mridangam and nattuvangam, creating a cohesive rhythm.
  • Expressions and Storytelling: The makeup and ornaments amplify Abhinaya, ensuring that the narrative reaches every member of the audience.
  • Divinity and Grandeur: The attire transforms the dancer into a divine storyteller, bridging the gap between the spiritual and the earthly realms.

Enhancing User Experience (UX) for the Audience

In a solo Bharatanatyam performance, the dancer’s presentation is crucial to captivating the audience. By combining visual aesthetics with masterful dance techniques, the performer ensures that the audience’s experience is immersive, engaging, and transformative. The grandeur of the ornaments and the precision of the makeup work together to create a performance that is not only seen and heard but also felt deeply.

Ornaments – Female DancersDescription

Head OrnamentsIncludes Nettichutti (forehead ornament), Chandra (moon), Surya (sun), Rakkodi (back of the head ornament), Jadai Billai (braid ornaments), and Jadai Nagam (snake-shaped braid ornament).
Ear OrnamentsJimikki (jhumkas) and Mattal (chains connecting earrings to the hair).
Neck OrnamentsAddigai (short choker), Kasumalai (coin necklace), Manga Malai (mango-shaped necklace), and temple necklaces.
Shoulder OrnamentsVanki (armlets) worn on the upper arms, often V-shaped with intricate designs.
Waist OrnamentOddiyanam (decorative waist belt) used to hold the pleats of the costume.
Hand OrnamentsValayal (bangles) and Nettipattam (finger rings) for wrist and hand adornment.
AnkletsSalangai (ankle bells) essential for rhythm and enhancing auditory impact.
Face MakeupFoundation and base makeup for an even skin tone, Kumkum (vermillion), and a large decorative Bindi.
Eye MakeupKohl, eyeliner, and eye shadow to emphasize and define the eyes; false eyelashes for added drama.
Lips and CheeksBright lipstick, blush for pronounced expressions.
Hands and FeetAlta (red dye) applied on the palms and soles; nails painted in red or natural tones.
HairLong braid adorned with flowers (jasmine) and braid ornaments like Jadai Nagam; hair spray/gel for styling.
Forehead/Head DecorationTilak or decorative marks in line with the theme of the performance.

 

Makeup AreaDescription
FaceFoundation and base makeup for an even skin tone, Kumkum (vermillion), and a large decorative Bindi.
EyesKohl, eyeliner, and eye shadow to emphasize and define the eyes; false eyelashes for added drama.
LipsBright lipstick to enhance expressions.
CheeksBlush for pronounced expressions and adding vibrancy to the face.
Hands and FeetAlta (red dye) applied on the palms and soles; nails painted in red or natural tones to highlight movements.
HairLong braid adorned with flowers (jasmine) and braid ornaments; hair spray/gel for a neat appearance.
Forehead/Head DecorationTilak or decorative marks in line with the theme of the performance.